Monday 29 July 2019

Charlton Life Somme Trip 2019

Coming up for three years ago, on the way back from a protest trip to St Truiden, a small party of Addicks agreed a minor detour to enable us to visit the World War One war grave of ex-Addick Herbert "Nobby" Nightingale. We also took in the Menin Gate and the experience was enriched by the commentary given to us by Guild of Battlefield Guide and all-round Charlton nut, Clive Harris. I promised myself that day that I wanted to see and learn more about World War One and would get on one of Clive's very popular tours.

It may have taken longer than anticipated but I was delighted to spend this weekend touring the battlefields and cemeteries of The Somme. The trip was enhanced by the fact that friends and I were part of a coach full of Charlton Lifers as well as few fans from other clubs (Millwall and Reading). We set-off from Charlton at 5.15am on Saturday and were in northern France and at our first stop by mid-morning. The coach rolled on from stop-to-stop until tea-time and we were all thoroughly absorbed by Clive's first-class story-telling which told us of the key military engagements, individual heroics and the sporting connections as we went. 

I have learnt far more about World War Two over the years but the significance of World War One has loomed larger more recently as I have read more and it has received more media attention with the passing centenary. It was fantastic to be able to put landscapes and towns to what were previously just awkward French place names. When you are on the ground, it's also incredible just how close all of these iconic names and actions are to one another. Clive has a story to tell on almost every bend in the road and he can recount the war on a day-by-day date basis. The product of a life's obsession covering the reading of more than 3000 books on the subject and 15 years experience teaching and touring. How fortunate we are to count him among our number.

We had the added benefit of the personal family stories from a number of those on board which were retold and remembered as we reached the appropriate places. Brave young men whose lives were cut short so suddenly leaving a painful family legacy which would endure for decades but which has still not been forgotten 100 years later. 

Michael and Matteus, two German Addicks, who like the Millwall-supporting couple, had to enjoy some gentle stereotypical ribbing, such as "waiting to win on penalties" in a particularly well-told Clive tale about football in no-man's land. It may also have encouraged Clive to take us to the largest German WW1 cemetery in France, at Neuville-St Vaast outside Arras, where we walked among the graves and steel crosses of 45,000 fallen Germans. The contrast to the multitude of 'English Garden' Commonwealth War Grave Commission cemeteries we had visited and driven past was stark, and a powerful reminder that there are no real winners and losers in war, just huge changes in society and the world at large. 

In addition to the sites, stories and sacrifices of heroes Donald Bell, Sandy Turnbull and Walter Tull, we also stopped at the resting place of Addick, Fred Chick, probably most poignant life story of the three Charlton men killed during the Great War - Jim McKenzie will have to wait a little longer. 

As if that were not enough, Clive and Steve Hunnisett (sp) are supporting a Charlton Museum-led evening next Tuesday (6th August) at the White Swan in Charlton Village where there will be four short talks on WW1 sporting connections. There will also be a 'Blitz Walk' from the ground to the Village ahead of this at 6.15pm and the Charlton Museum will be open from 4pm. 

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